– Christien Meindertsma “One Sheep Sweater” –
This series of interviews is based the Test_Lab “Clothing without Cloth” which took place at V2_ Institute for the Unstable Media in Rotterdam, May 2011 and featured: Emily Crane (UK), Carole Collet (UK), Christien Meinderstsma (NL), Grado Zero Espace (IT), Pauline van Dongen (NL) and Freedom Of Creation (NL).
Christien Meindertsma is a Dutch designer infamous for her unconventional use of materials and exceptionally researched harvesting. She re-enchants us with the material world by making us aware of the provenance of raw materials with projects such as a tree-shaped train from one single tree (Tree Track), a book about all the products made from a single pig (PIG 05049) or the revival of of flax farming in Holland (The Flax Project). For the Test_Lab “Clothing without Cloth”, Christine presented her work in progress “One Sheep Sweater”.
BACKGROUND
What is your background?
I studied at the Design Academy in Eindhoven and have had a small design studio since 2003.
What led to your interest in exploring unusual materials in design?
I don’t think I explore only unusual materials, more the lack of knowledge and possibilities of working with materials that are usual but not well known.
I found the right flock of sheep, the right spinning mill and the right person to help me with programming the knitting machine.
SITES
Please describe the your studio: where are you located, how many designers/technologists work with you, and how are the garments produced?
I have a small studio and I collaborate a lot with other little companies. The sweaters that I am working on are produced as follows: First the sheep are shorn and the wool cleared of the dirtiest parts. Then the wool is washed and spun into one cone of yarn per sheep in a small spinning mill. Then the sweaters are 3D knitted in the Textiel Museum in Tilburg [ http://www.textielmuseum.nl/ ].
How does the environment you work in influence the designs you make (i.e. access to technology/ specialists)?
I have had a wish to 3D knit sweaters from one sheep since my graduation in 2003 but only now has it become possible. I found the right flock of sheep, the right spinning mill and the right person to help me with programming the knitting machine.
Old and new possibilities always affect the choice of materials and technologies.
– Christien Meindertsma “One Sheep Sweater” –
TECHNOLOGIES
What kinds of materials and technologies are used or integrated into your designs?
For the “One Sheep Sweater” design I used Dutch merino wool, a mini spinning mill and a Stoll 3D knitting machine.
Do you collaborate with technologist/laboratories, and if so, whom and how does this effect the choice of technologies and materials?
I am planning to work on new projects that are a collaboration with universities and labs. Old and new possibilities always affect the choice of materials and technologies I think.
How much do the materials and technologies used in the designs influence the aesthetics? Or do the aesthetics dictate the technologies and materials, and how?
I try to let the materials and their story dictate the aesthetics.
What are the challenges for you as a designer working with innovative materials and technology?
A lot of the textiles industry has disappeared and companies are still closing. The possibilities and the knowledge gets lost this way. It is difficult to find producers.
What do you think the technology brings to the craft and role of design?
I think it is a different kind of craftsmanship.
I don’t think my concept is about everyone making their own sweater. If that was the concept it would have been smarter to make it a hand knit sweater instead of a 3D knitted one.
ONE SHEEP SWEATER
Could you describe the work that you showcaed at the V2_ Test_Lab “Clothing without Cloth” event – “One Sheep Sweater” – what is it, and why did you make it?
It is a sweater made from the wool of exactly one sheep. The yarn is spun in a small mill and the sweater is knit on a 3D knitting machine. This means it knits the whole sweater in one piece
Was “One Sheep Sweater” influenced by the slow food or one mile diet concepts and how is it similar or different to these?
When I graduated (from Design Academy Eindhoven) in 2003 I had never heard of the slow food movement. But now that I know about it, I think they definitely relate to each other.
How realistic is it for “everyone” to make his or her own sweater? How can we implement this concept in a grass-roots way the same way that it is not too complicated to have chickens and fresh eggs if you have a small plot of land, or grow some tomatoes on a balcony or roof?
I don’t think my concept is about everyone making their own sweater. If that was the concept it would have been smarter to make it a hand knit sweater instead of a 3D knitted one.
Is “One Sheep Sweater” also a social, economic, agricultural and governmental critique / provocation and how?
The one sheep sweater is not a provocation. It is simply about knowing what it is that you are wearing. And it is about trying to produce something that is locally made and that is low tech and high-tech at the same time.
Do you think that Holland (or other countries) need more involvement from the state to preserve certain bio-agricultural industries? And if so how and why?
I don’t think that this should be limited to bio-agricultural industries but the making industries in general. I think it is important to know how the things that surround us are made.
The quality of life of the sheep is literally translated in the quality of the wool. If a sheep has a bad week, that will be the week spot in the wool.
Is it important for the sweater you will 3D knit from the local sheep wool at the Textile Museum to aesthetically also represent the concept and process of the “One Sheep Sweater”, and if so, how will you achieve this?
The wool of each sheep is very different in quality. The quality of life of the sheep is literally translated in the quality of the wool. If a sheep has a bad week, that will be the week spot in the wool. If you pull a piece of raw wool that is where it will break. So each sweater will look different according to the sheep.
In your opinion, how can design and fashion in general become more sustainable?
I think that we have gotten used to clothes being too cheap and too disposable. Also the knowledge of what garments are made from is very limited.
What are some other (than wool) local (Holland-based) materials and industries which could be better harnessed for a more sustainable approach to fashion and garment design and production?
Flax is a good example. I am setting up a project around a piece of land in the Flevopolder where this is grown. I have followed the process from the seed to the crop and will develop the entire harvest of that field in to textiles, paper and composites this year.
– Christien Meindertsma “One Sheep Sweater” –
V2_ TEST_LAB “CLOTHING WITHOUT CLOTH”
How does your work relate to the work of Emily Crane “Micro-Nutrient Couture” and Carole Collet from Central Saint Martins Textiles Futures research? They is interested in a zero resources scenario where we look at organic systems for our survival. Do you see a relation with your work and how?
I don’t think this relates to my work.
I know that Grado Zero Espace is looking into nettle as a “new” material (it has been used as a cotton substitute in the past) because it has insulating properties. Do you see wool having a revival because some of its natural properties such as being water repellant, fire resistant and anti-static? Are there other local (Dutch) materials which you imagine could be used for “smart” textiles uses?
I think wool is already having a revival to a certain extent. I am currently working on a project about flax. This material is already pretty smart and could get much smarter in the future.
Pauline van Dongen in collaboration with Freedom Of Creationproduced some pretty exciting shoes. It made me think, since you describe yourself as a kind of “middle person” between the “raw” wool and the digital 3D printing process, would you envision working with a fashion designer to develop the “One Sheep Sweater”?
That is not exactly what I meant regarding being the person in the middle, I see that more as an extension of what I do as a designer. To be the connection between the materials and the consumer through the design. But, never say never, of course collaborating is always a possibility if you meet someone you relate to.
Rotterdam, June 2011
